Bernard Defaix
The Bernard Defaix domaine is a leading exponent of classic, mineral Chablis, farmed organically since 2009, and producing terroir-driven, fresh wines typical of their origins. Didier Defaix is the current winemaker of the family domaine, established in Chablis in the late 1950s. He is the fourth generation of his family to work the vines. Didier is assisted on the commercial side by his wife Hélène Jaeger-Defaix, herself a wine grower from Rully (Côte Chalonnaise) and whose wines are also made at the
the winery in Milly, a small village a few minutes outside Chablis.
The Wines
Bernard Defaix Chablis 2022 Tech sheet | Label
Bernard Defaix Chablis Premier Cru Côte de Lechet 2022 Tech sheet | Label
Bernard Defaix Chablis Premier Cru Côte de Lechet Réserve 2022 Tech sheet | Label
Bernard Defaix Chablis Premier Cru Montée de Tonnerre 2022 Tech Sheet | Label
Bernard Defaix was the first generation of his Chablis family to bottle his own wine, the 1959 vintage, sourced from 2ha of vineyards. The domaine grew substantially over the years and now covers 27ha (59 acres). In recent decades, Bernard’s two sons, Didier (managing the vineyard) and Sylvain (winemaking) run the domaine, while Didier’s wife Hélène oversees the commercial operation.
The Defaix holdings are largely on the rive gauche (the left bank of the Serein river), where many famous premier cru sites are located such as Vaillons and Montmains. The Defaixs own 8ha in the Côte de Lechet Premier Cru, which makes them the largest producer of this excellent vineyard. From particularly old vines scattered within it, they make the Côte de Lechet Réserve, a wine of piercing mineral intensity and depth of fruit. The village Chablis is assembled from across their holdings.
Viticulture is certified organic and careful plowing used for weed management. Some biodynamic sprays (500, 501) are also used. Grapes are harvested by machine in order to maximize fruit health upon arrival at the winery (a common practice in Chablis and one to which Chardonnay responds well). In the winery particular attention is paid to avoiding oxidation and maintaining purity of the musts. In general, village level wines are fermented and aged in stainless steel, while the Premiers Crus see some old oak, with bâtonnage according to the needs of the specific wines and vintages. All bottling is completed prior to the next vintage.
The Bernard Defaix wines are pure Chablis: concentrated, energetic, fresh, saline, flinty and tensile with an unmistakable mineral core. It is surprising they are not better known; these are among the most rewarding wines in the appellation, and at very fair prices.
Didier and Hélène Defaix with Nick Jackson (right) in April 2022
Chablis Côte de Lechet
Didier Defaix
Hélène Jaeger-Defaix
Chablis Premier Cru
Rully, Côte Chalonnaise
Harvest in Rully
Rully harvest