Quinta do Escudial
Quinta do Escudial is a small, family producer in the Dao region of inland, central Portugal. At the foot of the Serra da Estrela mountain range, the Silva family specialize in producing unoaked wines from indigenous Portuguese varieties grown on granite soils. The wines are classically Portuguese: fragrant, dry and ageworthy, and represent outstanding value.
The Wines
Escudial’s reds are typical Dao blends. Leading the way among the varieties included is Touriga Nacional, which originates from the Dao (and not from the Douro, as many believe) and supplies floral perfume and tannin. Jaen (Mencia in Spain) gives juicy fruit, while Tinta Roriz (aka Tempranillo) yields acid, tannin and fruit. Lesser varieties include Alfrocheiro, for color and acidity; and Baga, from the neighboring Bairrada region, for complex perfume and fine-boned fruit.
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The Dao region feels like the land that time forgot; a poor, inland area of central Portugal off the beaten path. And yet it has always been one of Portugal’s leading wine regions, supplying complex red blends and mineral whites (from Portugal’s best white variety, Encruzado). Protected from Atlantic influence by mountain ranges on three sides, the Dao experiences warm summers, and can suffer from humidity in the vineyards (although by the same token, winter rainfall is abundant). The region is blessed by sandy/granite soils, a boon for the production of mineral whites and reds. Reds constitute 80% of Dao’s production. They tend to be firmly structured with excellent acidity and a floral and dark fruit flavor profile. They finish dry, making them excellent food wines.
The Silva family’s vineyards cover six contiguous hectares (14 acres), on gentle slopes outside the town of Seia, with an impressive ampitheatre-like shape (see image below). The vineyards are farmed as organically as possible, without the use of herbicides. The pressure of mildew, however, means that they are occasionally required to spray anti-fungal chemicals to ensure a decent yield. In the winery, winemaking is straightforward, all in stainless steel where, indeed, the wines remain for aging. The only oxidative contact is through occasional racking during the course of their long aging period (3-5 years!). As a result the wines are particularly pure, capturing the fruit and dusty minerality particularly well, while the extended aging softens the tannins.
The property has been in the hands of the Silva family for at least three generations. Since 2018, the manager is José. As far back as the 1950s, his grandparents vinified grapes for family consumption and sold the rest to the local co-op. José’s parents (José and Estefania) took over in 2000, planted more vineyard in 2003, and created the Escudial brand in 2004. The total production of the estate is 35-40,000 bottles/year.
